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First Look

A WARM WELCOME TO THE NEW MONOCHROME BLACK CARTIER TANK MUST

By Elsie Flynn 3 Minute Read
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The Cartier Tank Must collection; an icon in watchmaking, and a timepiece loved by men and women of all generations.

We don’t throw around the word ‘icon’ lightly: the Tank watch first debuted 1917 and has captivated watch enthusiasts across the world ever since, taking its place as a reference model in watchmaking.

The story behind the watch is almost as historic of the timepiece itself. The Tank is named as such because Louis Cartier, it is said, based the design on the top view of a Renault tank during the First World War.

It might be hard to imagine: how on earth does the beautiful, elegant Cartier Tank derive from a bulky combat piece of machinery? Well, Louis Cartier was subtle and clever: the enormous set of caterpillar treads were echoed in the brancards, and the case represented the cockpit of the vehicle. It was a revolutionary timepiece, based – suitably – on one of the most revolutionary and influential tank designs in history.

The original served as the basis for over 100 years of Cartier Tank renditions. It has become so marked, worldwide, that it’s recognisable from even the mere silhouette of the piece. From the Cartier Tank, to the ‘Must de Cartier’ of the 1970s, to the reintroduced Tank Must in 2021, to the newest additions of 2022 – including the Tank Louis Cartier and the Tank Must Black.

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I don’t wear a Tank watch to tell the time. Actually, I never even wind it. I wear a Tank because it is the watch to wear! ANDY WARHOL, ARTIST

The two new additions both feature striking monochrome black dials, with the colour created from an application of lacquer. The feature gives the dials an almost liquid reflective surface, and this, combined with its equally black alligator strap, provides a dramatic backdrop for the iconic Tank Must hands and branding.

The first piece comes with a black patent alligator leather strap, whilst the other is presented on a slightly large case and a matt black alligator leather strap. The Cartier Tank Must is expertly crafted – but did we expect anything less?

Explore these beautifully executed black dial timepieces here at Goldsmiths today.

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