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On the first Monday in May, on a red carpet extending from the doors of the Metropolitan Museum of Art to Manhattan's Fifth Avenue, pearls triumphed.
They came wearing pearls. Several strands of pearls encircled wrist and neck of model Gigi Hadid; Serena Williams completed her pearl necklaces with a matching headpiece. As a design detail, pearls were spun into gowns, worn by actors Salma Hayek Pinault and Anne Hathaway and by Kim Kardashian. Rita Ora meanwhile fitted fingernails with cascading chains dotted with pearls.
It's a trend that many foresaw. Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty, this year's blockbuster exhibition by the Costume Institute, celebrates the work of the master fashion designer who died in 2019. For the opening night, the Met Gala, the dress code was thus set as "in honour of Karl".
Guests were invited to draw inspiration from Lagerfeld's rich archive of creations, all originally designed for the brands he worked with, from Pierre Balmain (to whom Lagerfeld apprenticed) to Patou, Chloé and Fendi. At the latter, Lagerfeld created from 1965 to the year of his passing. It's a relationship that began in 1983 that to many has remained the most memorable: it was then that Lagerfeld joined Chanel and set about reviving the then ailing Parisian brand. Redressing the codes of Chanel – separates tailored from tweed and quilted leathers among them – Lagerfeld also embraced pearls, looking to Coco Chanel's own love of the milky gem.
Each a design classic, at Goldsmiths, options for pearl jewellery abound and include sizeable Manon pearl earrings by London designer Kiki McDonough. Aside from pearls, Lagerfeld's history-making tenure at Chanel can be paid homage to with a selection of vintage Chanel costume jewellery. Sourced by expert Susan Caplan, a necklace of gold plated coins stamped with the brand's famous initials and its equally famous Paris address on rue Cambon count amongst rare finds at Goldsmiths. Caplan also offers gold-plated round clip-on earrings worked to a signature quilted motif and raised CC logo; a Byzantine revival style necklace is long enough to be worn doubled-up.
Rihanna made a late entrance. Set in platinum, Rihanna's high jewellery necklace combined dozens of Akoya pearls with hundreds of diamonds, including five pear-shaped gems and 561 fancy-shape diamonds. The dramatic piece ushered in the second jewellery trend of the night: diamonds.
This too was an ode to Lagerfeld. An admirer of jewellery, Lagerfeld collected avidly, seeking out pieces by contemporary makers and legacy names, and he would often dot lapels and neckties with important diamonds brooches. At the Met Gala, Nicole Kidman, Irina Shayk and Miranda Kerr, all took their cue and zeroed-in on diamond-set pieces. A never before seen high jewellery diamond collier also made its debut, worn by Lily Collins.
Inspired? At Goldsmiths, a pair of white gold hoop earrings is striking for its double rows of round brilliant-cut diamonds. In an elegant line bracelet, diamonds are set to graduate in size; a white gold Linear Line necklace is architectural in design. And while there were no proposals on the Met Gala red carpet, at Goldsmiths, an engagement ring frames one round diamond with a halo traced in smaller stones.
Create your own Met Gala look here at Goldsmiths online or visit us in store at one of our showrooms where our jewellery experts will be delighted to help you find the perfect piece.
Author Credit: Felix Bischof is the editor of THE WEEK Fashion and THE WEEK Time & Jewels. He has written widely on the subject of watches and jewellery, for titles including Vanity Fair, Vogue and The Times.
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